How To Build a Kickass Chicken Coop

So, a few weeks ago I set out with the intention of building temporary housing for the Nuggets– a FEMA trailer of the poultry world, if you will– and instead my little flock ended up in a penthouse chicken suite. I may have gotten a little carried away.


And that might be the understatement of the year. But really, why go to the trouble
 of making all that sawdust if you’re not going to build something that’s at least a little awesome?
The chickens concur.

The Nugget Barn isn’t 100% complete, but it’s close enough to give you a look at how I built this baby from scratch with nothing but a picture for inspiration and a desire to use a lot of tools. (God, I love my tools.)
Anyway, here’s a fair warning before we delve into this project… I don’t have a step-by-step plan, complete with measurements, fasteners and “attach board A using screw B” directions for building this coop. My favorite part about building shit is not working from a plan, so I don’t have one to give you, but I can show you the techniques and tools I used throughout the building process– what things worked well, and what things almost cost me a finger. So hopefully that gives you a leg up if you decide to build your own chickens a small and tastefully decorated McMansion. (Really gives a whole new meaning to the term, doesn’t it?)
So, let’s dive in. Here’s a really high-level look at the materials and tools involved in this adventure…
Materials:

• 3/8″ Plywood – 1 sheet for the platform and roof sheathing
• 1/8″ luan – 1+ sheets to skin the sides of the coop
• 2×4’s – several to build the frame
• 2×3’s – several to build the frame
• 1×2 – 1 board for door accents
• 1×6- 1 board for ramp
• 3/4″ x 1/2″ trim – 1 piece for ramp treads
• old barn wood – various sizes for siding, trim, and doors
• 1/2″ wire mesh for doors
• hinges and latches
• corrugated metal roofing – 2 pieces for the roof
• 10″ metal flashing – 3 lf for the roof cap
• 20# roofing felt
• a shit ton of framing and finish nails, screws, a few brackets, and roofing screws

Tools (this is the fun part)

• Table saw
• Compound miter saw
• Circular saw (this saw was the hero of this project)
• Hand-held jigsaw
• Framing nailer
• Drill/driver
• Finish nailer
• Stapler
• Level
• Tape measure
• Chisel
• A not insignificant number of Band-aids (if you’re smart, you’ll replace this item with gloves)

I sketched this out a few times to really wrap my head around how I was going to build it, what supports would be striclty necessary and what ones I could sacrifice to keep the weight down. In the end, I started with a platform built of 2×3’s.

The platform is roughly 3′ x 4′, and I assembled it by end-nailing the boards into place, similar to how I would if I was framing a wall. (Here’s some more info on legitimately framing something, and all of the techniques can be used on a smaller scale when, you know, building a smaller house.)

Next up were the legs. I used a 2×3 and 2×4 for each…

The legs were about 18″ tall, and this was definitely the wrong spot to attach them…

I mean, it makes a nice table, but the point was to have the nesting boxes as an overhang– this is the kind of thing that happens when you’re figuring it out as you go– but in the end, no big deal to take two of the legs off and move them to the proper spot.

There we go.
Now, at this point I should have also attached the braces for the legs, but I didn’t think of it at the time– which, in the end, meant I had to lay underneath the coop to attach them after the Nugs were already living in it. Unless you like chicken poop in your hair, I suggest doing it at an earlier stage in the build process.
Ah, well. Live and learn.

The top of the platform is 3/8″ plywood, cut to size with the circular saw and tacked down with screws.
Then it was time to start actually framing the structure of the coop. I used 2×4’s for the main area.

And 2×3’s for the nesting-box “addition.”

Since I was figuring out the dimensions as I went, when it came to cutting angles I would hold the board in place and mark the cut-line with a pencil instead of making my eyes bleed with mathematical equations. I’m building a chicken hut here, not a bridge.

You can see the beam for the top of the roof was attached with brackets, but everything else was nailed together with the framing nailer.
Here’s what the coop looked like framed in.



Next up was figuring out how I wanted to sheath the damn thing. There are a few things to take into consideration here, particularly the type of siding you’re using and your climate.
For example, if you were using something like T1-11 siding, you could probably just use 1/2″ without sheathing the coop first. I decided to use some old barn wood, however, which coincidentally, came off of the very barn in which I built the coop.

“Well hello down there. I will make something awesome out of you one day. Like….. now.”
It was fairly warped and not very structurally sound, so I decided to sheath the coop in 1/8″ thick luan first, to make sure the Nuggets would be protected from the elements. I used screws every 6-8″ on the studs to attach the sheathing.

To cut that arch I first tried to freehand it, and then realized I was being an idiot and wrapped a piece of wire around a screw and my pencil.

Makeshift compass for the win. (Of course, I later realized my actual legitimate compass was exactly seven steps away from where I did this, but whatevs. It worked.)
Next up was siding. For the trim I ripped down some 2×6 barnwood on the table saw.


Then filled her in with barn wood.

Just for fun I used some different wood for the nesting boxes.


Two tips about working with old-ass barn wood. 1.) You are going to get splinters. One of them may still be under your fingernail three weeks later…

…and 2.) Sometimes you’ll need to creatively persuade a board into place. With clamps, a hammer, and the sheer force of your stubbornness.

But it’s worth it.

Next up was putting the roof on. So, here’s a true confession for anyone who thinks I brazenly take on any project with the slightest hint of fear… that’s a big fucking lie. Number one on the list of projects I’ve manage to avoid in the last decade is “things that occur on a roof”, number two is “things that involve cutting metal.” So basically this portion of the project gave me enough frown lines to keep Botox in business for the next decade.
But, before you write me off as a the worlds biggest wimp, last year I had to suck it up and re-roof the donkey barn which taught me a lot about roofs and getting the eff over my fear of falling off of one. And since I wasn’t actually going to be climbing on the roof of the Nugget Barn, all I had to do was put on my big-girl tool belt and cut the corrugated metal roofing down to size.
Here’s how that part went down…
First, the metal roofing panels I got from Lowe’s were actually a lot thinner and lighter than I expected them to be, which bolstered my courage when it came to cutting them down.
I decided to use my circular saw with a metal cutting blade, which meant the wood blade had to come off…

Metal blade went on, along with safety glasses (which are 100% necessary unless you want your eyeballs burned out by little flying pieces of glowing hot metal), but I did not put on long sleeves or gloves. In retrospect, sharp edges of metal roofing + gusting winds = goodbye fingertip. So. Yeah. Don’t do that.


Cutting the roofing was much easier than I anticipated though, even with the wad of gauze and bandaids keeping me from bleeding out all over my new chicken roof.
To attach it, I put 3/8″ plywood on to sheath the roof, then stapled on some roofing felt…

Then the pieces of metal roof were attached, overlapping, using some metal roofing screws that have a rubber gasket on them to seal the hole as the screw is driven.

For the cap, I used some aluminum flashing and a makeshift brake (ie a 2×4 and my T-square) to bend an angle into it.

This works for now, but I need to find some thicker metal for the final cap.

The last thing that needed to be done for this phase of coop building was to build the doors to the side of the cage and attach everything.
To build the doors I ripped down some old barn wood (similar to the trim) to make the frames.

Then I clamped them together, used my staple gun to attach the wire cloth, and screwed some metal brackets in over top to both hold the frame together and keep the mesh in place.

Once I held them up to the coop though, I knew they needed a little something extra.

To make the cross braces, I used some pressure-treated 1×2 (technically scraps from building the frames for the run, which I’ll get into in another post). To get them to lay flat I used the same technique as I did when I built the legs for this picnic table– cut notches into the wood then chiseled them out.


Plus a little paint…

The very last thing was to build the ramp so that the nugs could actually get in and out of the coop on their own.

This is a 1×6 with the treads spaced every 4-5 inches, evenly across the board.
I glued the treads in place and then tested it out with the actual end-users before finishing it off…

Ehhhhhh…. what is this strange thing that is ergonimically designed for my little chicken feet so that I can easily make my way up and down from the penthouse?

Who needs wings?
To finish the ramp off, I added some dowels to the top and then drilled holes into the platform on the coop to hold it in place.

The hinges and locks were the last thing to go on (and I’m still figuring out double-locking mechanisms for each of them, to keep any smart-ass racoons out.)

And then, of course, I had to but in the bed and kitchen.

You’ll see I put a little roost in up by the roof (which is why the roof on my coop is taller than in the inspiration pic) and they totally love it.
Before they moved in, I also installed braces on the legs and painted any exposed “new” wood so that it didn’t stand out so much. I don’t 100% love it, so I’m deciding if I’ll clad the legs with barn-wood or just see if it grows on me.

The chickens have been living in the coop (and free-ranging when I’m home) for over a week now, and they seem to love it. You know, because I’m a chicken psychic now and totally know what they’re thinking.
However, the Nugget Barn is not quite complete yet. To finish it off I need to:
1.) Build a brace to hold the roof of the nesting box up to make it easy to collect eggs.

2.) Divide this space into 3 nesting boxes using some 3/8″ plywood and brackets.

3.) Build the attached run so they can be safely outside when I’m not there.

4.) Attach the wheels/handles to make the coop portable.

And that, my friends, is how the Nugget Barn came into existence. It was a really fun project, and there are so many different ways you could finish these things off with new and re-claimed materials. (Which may or may not be proportional to the number of ways you can find yourself in a little padded room for hoarding farm animals…)

 

Source:

http://diydiva.net/2013/05/how-to-build-a-kickass-chicken-coop/

Books Of Interest:

 

DIY Solar Oven

 

A Do-It-Yourself Solar Oven, is a simple, low cost project that anyone can complete in a couple of hours, once you have collected the materials. We'll start with a very simple design, that gives you a working solar oven.

Materials for a Solar Oven

• Cardboard box, around 20" x 20" x 18", double-walled corrugated cardboard works best.
• A sturdy piece of cardboard, just slightly larger than the opening of the cardboard box. If the cardboard box is 20" x 20", then make this piece around 21" x 21".
• Tape. Duct tape works well.
• 1" thick hardboard insulation - enough to cover the bottom and sides of the box. Not styrofoam.
• Heavy duty aluminum foil - about 10 square feet.
• White glue.
• Flat, black spray paint - used for BBQ or wood stoves works best.
• A big roasting bag or a piece of glass, slightly larger than the opening of the box.
• A BBQ thermometer.

Assemble the Solar Oven

1. Bend the flaps of the cardboard box, OUT and DOWN and tape them down at the corners.
2. Prepare the insulation & aluminum foil & glue into the box.
   • Cut the insulation to size, to fit the bottom & 4 sides of the inside of the box - if you don't have insulation you could use several pieces of cardboard instead. If you double the pieces of insulation, you get even better results.
   • Glue aluminum foil to one side of each piece of insulation and spray with black paint.
   • Glue the pieces of insulation into the box, with the black sides facing the inside of the oven.
3. Prepare the Lid
   • cut a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the opening of the oven. Then cut out a hole the same size as the opening of the oven and tape the roasting bag over this hole (single ply only).
   • if using glass, you don't need the cardboard or roasting bag. Just ensure the glass is slightly larger then the oven opening and makes a good seal when placed on the top.
4. Poke BBQ thermometer through front of oven and seal with tape.

Cooking with your Solar Oven

Aim the oven into the sun by looking at the shadows - don't look at the sun. Periodic repositioning into the sunlight will be required.
Place a drip pan at the bottom of the oven, to catch spills, boil-over's, etc. You need a black pot with a snug lid for cooking. Glass jars, painted black, also work well. Try different pots till you find one that works well. Remember that the pot or jar can get very hot!
This simple oven will work well for warming rolls and keeping cooked items hot. It also works well for items that don't need a set temperature (rice, beans, soup, corn of the cob).

Improving your Solar Oven Design

Materials

You might want to try using plywood rather than cardboard for a longer lasting oven. For sure, you'll want to use a glass window rather than roasting bag. Improve your seal around the glass window and all the joints in the oven to reduce heat loss.

Reflectors

You can boost the heat quite a bit with reflectors. These can be fairly simple as well - cardboard, with aluminum foil glued to them, and taped together and to the oven. Use the shadows to aim everything towards the sun.

Size

Bigger capacity ovens with larger reflectors are capable of getting really hot. They are also easier to work with: getting food in and out.

Source:
https://web.archive.org/web/20130430193223/http://greenterrafirma.com/diy-solar-oven.html

DIY Chicken Plucker

Posted by Kate at 7:25 AM 

 

I know my track record is not great when it comes to delivering promised posts on certain topics. I'm trying to make amends this week. So today it's a post on the homemade chicken plucker that I used to help process my three layers last week.

The idea came from someone named RedneckPete, who posted about this invention, calling it the $6 chicken plucker. You can see a video of this plucker in action here. (Don't click either link if you're squeamish about such things.) I came across this last year, when I first anticipated slaughtering my older laying hens in late fall. I can't remember exactly what the materials cost me when I went shopping for this project, but it was more than $6. I'm sure it was less than $20 however. I bought a PVC endcap, a short length of small diameter all-thread, a package of six rubber bungee cords, and a few bolts and washers. I already had the Makita drill.


The way it works is that the S-hooks are removed from the bungee cords and the cords trimmed to leave about 3" of material attached to each end. Then holes are made evenly around the PVC endcap to take the rubber "fingers" from the bungee cords. The wide ends where the S-hooks attached anchor the rubber inside the endcap. The all-thread passes through a hole drilled at the top of the endcap and offers purchase and a good grip for the electric drill. The business ends of the fingers whirl around and strip the feathers from a scalded carcass before evisceration.


I found that this worked reasonably well during my first processing experience. I still had to pluck some feathers by hand. If I'd had another pair of hands to help, it might have been better. As it was, I had to duct tape the drill to a sawhorse and depress the trigger with one hand while I manipulated the chicken carcass with the other. The largest feathers on the wings easily resisted the homemade chicken plucker, as did the finest pin feathers. Most of the others came right out.

For the very small amount of slaughtering I'm likely to do from year to year, this simple plucker will suffice. If I had ambitions for raising my own broilers in larger numbers, I might consider the Whizbang plucker, which is far more complicated and expensive to build, but can handle three chickens at a time. Harvey Ussery wrote about building one of these, and he seemed quite pleased with the performance. The drill chicken plucker is obviously a quick and dirty contraption compared to the Whizbang. But since the low end estimates for building a Whizbang come in at $600 or so, I'll stick with the <$20 model for now.

 

Source:

http://livingthefrugallife.blogspot.com/2009/07/diy-chicken-plucker.html

 

Books Of Interest:

 

 

Rainwater Harvesting Methods

How to Harvest Rainwater?

So you're convinced that you want to start collecting rainwater at your house. Below you will find the resources to educate yourself on the best method for harvesting rainwater in your situation. You will also find information about the basic components of a rainwater collection system. Even though rainwater catchment is an old technology, there have been many improvements over time through product innovations.

What are the different methods to collect rainwater?

The only thing that differs in the following methods is the scale of the system. They all follow the same principles but differ on aesthetics and actual water conservation effectiveness. Click the pictures for a closer look.

Rain Barrels

This method is the most common and one that many people are familiar with. This involves installing a barrel at a gutter downspout to collect rainwater. The actual barrel may be a recycled barrel or a new commercially available rain barrel. Pros: Easily implemented by anyone at any residence Barrels are readily available in your community or at various stores & websites Barrels don't take up much space so they can fit into any situation Cons: Capacity is generally only 50 to 100 gallons Easily overflows and wastes collection opportunities

"Dry" System

This method is a variation of a rain barrel set-up, but it involves a larger storage volume. Essentially, the collection pipe "drys" after each rain event since it empties directly into the top of the tank. Pros: Can store a large amount of rainwater Great for climates where rainfall happens with infrequent, larger storm events Can be inexpensive to implement Less complicated system so maintenance is easier Cons: The storage tank must be located next to your house

"Wet" System

This method involves locating the collection pipes underground in order to connect multiple downspouts from different gutters. The rainwater will fill the underground piping and the water will rise in the vertical pipes until it spills into the tank. The downspouts and underground collection piping must have water-tight connections. The elevation of the tank inlet must be below the lowest gutter on the house. Pros: The ability to collect from your entire collection surface The ability to collect from multiple gutters and downspouts The tank can be located away from your house Cons: More expensive to implement due to underground piping Sufficient difference between gutters and tank inlet must be available

How do I create a complete Rainwater Collection System?

The image below shows a complete rainwater collection system. While some of the components shown are absolutely necessary, not all of the components listed are required. Although, all of these components will help create a harvesting system that is highly functional and nearly maintenance-free.

	Collection Surface		Collection Cistern
	Collection Gutters		Overflow Port
	Gutter Protection		Auto-fill / Automatic Top-up Mechanism
	Rain Head Inlet Filter		Pump
	First-flush Diverter		Water Filter
	Inlet Screen		Water Level Indicator

What kinds of rainwater storage tanks can I use?

Well, you can collect rainwater into any storage vessel but here are some of the more popular, commercially available, rainwater collection tanks. Every tank has its' own pros and cons and different situations call for different tanks. One important note to remember is to ensure that your base preparation is performed in accordance to the tank manufacturer's instructions. These rainwater storage tanks will be extremely heavy when water is present inside them. Remember, water weighs 8.34 pounds per gallon!

Some issues to think about when installing a rainwater system

Flying Pipes

This issue is not necessarily bad as it allows for a higher efficiency of collection, but for most people, they don't want to see PVC pipe flying overhead at their homes. Some other things to think about is the possibility of damage to the collection pipes from storms and injuries to people who could run into the pipes.

Tank material that allows sunlight inside

Do not use a translucent plastic tank for rainwater storage! The system may look great right after being installed, but unless you constantly put chlorine bleach into your tank, then the water inside the tank will grow algae and will look like pea soup. Click on the image to see this. These translucent tanks are meant for chemical storage not for raw water storage.

Water level indicator using a clear pipe

You find this type of water level indicator promoted on many DIY rainwater collection websites. Well, as in the previous issue with the clear or translucent tank material, the same phenomenon will occur with these clear pipe or clear flexible tubing water level indicators. The water in the indicator pipe is exposed to sunlight which promotes the growth of algae inside the clear pipe. Even if the indicator has a drain valve in it, the water vapor trapped in the clear pipe can still grow algae. Click on the image to see what the clear pipe water level indicator looks like after some time of use. If you install a water level indicator on your rainwater storage tank, make sure to use a different technique than a clear pipe indicator.

First-flush diverter that mixes with good rainwater

The purpose of a first-flush diverter (as seen in this image) is to divert the first bit of rainwater that drains from your collection surface. This first bit of rainwater has the highest concentration of dust and other particles. The diverter shown in this image is normally called a "poor man's diverter". As you can see though, the initial flush of water that has filled the pea-trap shaped pipes just pushes into the collection tank. In this configuration, you get no benefit... you might as well connect the downspout pipe straight to the tank inlet.

How can Innovative Water Solutions help me out?

Find out about our Rainwater Collection System Installation Services.

Source:
http://www.watercache.com/education/rainwater-how/